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Petite Purls
Maggie Bean & Friends
» photos: Nancy Anderson

Maggie Bean & Friends

By Nancy Anderson

This pattern was born out of my long-time love for dolls, bargain hunting & re-using old items in different ways. Inspired by the thriftiness & creativity of rag dolls, this doll incorporates the same principle of using up all of the leftovers. Puzzling over re-purposing design ideas has always been especially appealing to me and to be able to make a 2-D idea become 3-dimensional while using what’s on hand around the house, in the rag bag or at the local thrift shop, is the biggest thrill of all, in this creative process.


Maggie & Shelby: 22 inches tall
Lou: 23.5 inches tall


Worsted Weight reclaimed yarn from unraveled thrift store sweaters and/or various stash remnants; approximately 220 yards/200 meters required for doll

Recommended needle sizes

US 4/3.5 mm 24 inch circular needle or dpns (Maggie & Shelby)
US 6/4 mm 24 inch circular needle or dpns (Lou)
US 8/5 mm 24 inch circular needle (knitted clothing)


Stitch markers
Yarn needle
Embroidery thread & sharp embroidery needle for freckles, mouth & eyebrows
Sewing needle & thread to match doll & clothing
Long doll making needle for attaching eyes
Dressmaker shears
Straight pins
Polyester stuffing
Crochet hook for inserting hair strands into wig
10 mm black buttons or safety eyes (do not use for babies) - 2
Powder blush & small round brush or stenciling brush for applying cheek color
Baby shoes in newborn size

Optional materials:
Plastic pellet filler & knee high stocking for making package
Lace & ribbon remnants for embellishing doll undergarments
3-4 inch length of .75 inch diameter PVC pipe for neck reinforcement


Gauge not important –  use small enough needle to obtain a tight stitch in order to prevent stuffing showing through.

Pattern Notes

This pattern incorporates several techniques that can be used in a variety of combinations. Please read through the pattern entirely before starting to determine which techniques to use & how to proceed. Changes for dolls are indicated in parentheses ( ) throughout the pattern, unless otherwise indicated. 

Make your doll to suit your own tastes, hair & skin colors. Yarns & techniques used are merely suggestions. Scouring thrift stores & yard sales , as well as Kool-Aid® dying was half of the fun in creating these dolls. And don’t forget toys & accessories for these girls; as I was gathering my old sweaters I found lots of items that were just the right size for Maggie, Shelby & Lou to “play” with.

All of the dolls and their clothes are constructed out of re-claimed, recycled yarns and felted wool, “harvested” from thrift shop and yard sale sweaters. For more information on recycling old sweaters please see for a tutorial on de-constructing sweaters. 

Doll bodies are knit in the round using the magic loop technique, or they can be worked with dpns. 

Maggie’s legs are knitted to look like striped stockings and she has wavy auburn hair & freckles. For a quicker finish, Shelby’s legs are sewn out of material from a felted, striped sweater and she has black curls tied into pigtails. Both are constructed from various unraveled sweaters in similar yarn weights on smaller than the recommended needle size (US 4/3.5 mm) to insure a tightly knitted fabric. If the needle size is too small for the yarn, move up a size but do knit these dolls with the smallest possible needle for optimal results.

With the exception of her brown hair, Maggie’s big sister, “Lou” is constructed entirely from 1 extra large ladies cream colored wool sweater, unraveled & Kool-aid dyed in various colors. She is worked on US size 6/4 mm needles and, unlike Maggie & Shelby, she does not have a knitted on shirt, but she does have knitted on ankle socks instead of stockings.

Kool-aid dying tutorial

Doll pattern is worked from the crown of the head downward; stuff doll as rounds are worked. If using post & washer eyes (also known as “safety eyes), make certain to add these before progressing to the neck area of the doll.

Optional plastic pellets are used to add weight to the doll. In order to contain the pellets, place approximately .25 cup of pellets into the toe of a knee-high stocking, tie stocking closed with a secure knot, trim excess stocking as needed. Stuff this pellet packet into the doll last (in the bottom area). This will help counter-balance the excess weight in her legs caused by the baby shoes.

Floppy necks can be problem for knitted dolls due to heavy yarn hair. A child-friendly armature for reinforcing the neck is to use a 4-5 inch length of .75 inch diameter (or smaller) PVC pipe which is virtually unbreakable, as opposed to using a wooden dowels which can splinter . 

When finishing your doll, (attaching limbs), don’t be overly concerned with the process. Use Kitchener Stitch or grafting or whatever is most comfortable for you. Toys are good projects to use for learning and practicing new skills. Just be certain to attach limbs securely to insure that they withstand rough play. 

Furthermore, less than perfect seaming can be camouflaged . For example, handsewing gathered lace remnants around the underpants “leg opening” (where leg is attached) looks sweet but also hides the seaming used. It’s wonderful to try to perfect your skills but this is a toy and is made to play with. Don’t let specific techniques keep you from making this doll. Toys are very forgiving, especially dolls. And the fact that you can create a doll from a ball of yarn makes you a star in the recipient’s eyes. They will love it!

A final note about safety: if making these dolls for a child under 2 years of age please use caution & adapt the doll accordingly. This would include embroidering the eyes instead of using buttons or safety eyes (yes, even the safety eyes have been known to pop off). Another potential hazard for babies can be the long hair on the dolls, which can become wrapped around little fingers.

Skills Required

Circular knitting on dpns or circular needles, straight knitting in stockinette & garter st, short row shaping, Kfb increase, decrease techniques: ssk, k2tog, pick up sts, moss stitch, simple embroidery stitches, seaming, hand or machine sewing, felting, unraveling sweaters, simple clothing construction.



Using size circular needle or dpns, cast on 6 sts. Place marker, being careful not to twist, join to begin working in the round.

Rnd 1: Kfb around: 12 sts.
Rnd 2: [Kfb, k1] around: 18 sts.
Rnd 3: [Kfb, k2] around: 24 sts.
Rnd 4: [Kfb, k3] around: 30 sts.
Rnd 5: [Kfb, k4] around: 36 sts.
Rnd 6: [Kfb, k5] around: 42 sts.
Rnd 7: [Kfb, k6] around: 48 sts.
Rnd 8: [Kfb, k7] around: 54 sts.
Rnd 9: [Kfb, k8] around: 60 sts.
Rnds 10-22: Knit around.
Rnd 23: [K2tog, k8] around: 54 sts.
Rnd 24: [K2tog, k7] around: 48 sts.
Rnd 25: [K2tog, k6] around: 42 sts.
Rnds 26-35: Knit around.
Rnd 36: [K2tog, k5] around: 36 sts.
Rnd 37: [K2tog, k4] around: 30 sts.
Rnd 38: [K2tog, k3] around: 24 sts.
Rnd 39: [K2tog, k2] around: 18 sts.

Rnds 40-42: Knit around (for Maggie & Shelby version, add contrasting color for shirt at last st of last round; finish off skin tone yarn): 18 sts.

Rnd 43: Continuing with skin tone (or shirt color), knit around: 18 sts.
Rnd 44 (Beg shoulder shaping): [Kfb, k2] around: 24 sts.

Rnd 45: [Kfb, k3] around: 30 sts.
Rnd 46: [Kfb, k4] around: 36 sts.
Rnd 47: [Kfb, k5] around: 42 sts.
Rnd 48: [Kfb, k6] around: 48 sts.
Rnd 49: [Kfb, k7] around: 54 sts.

Rnds 50-58: Knit around.
Rnd 59: [K2tog, k7] around: 48 sts.
Rnd 60: [K2tog, k6] around: 42 sts.

Rnds 61- 63: Knit around.
Rnd 64: [K2tog, k5] around: 36 sts.
Rnds 65-72: Knit around.

Rnd 73: Change to panty color (white) and knit around; finish off skin (or shirt color).
Rnd 74: [Kfb, k5] around: 42 sts.
Rnd 75: [Kfb, k6] around: 48 sts.
Rnd 76: [Kfb, k7] around: 54 sts.
Rnds 77-87: Knit around.
Rnd 88: [K2tog, k7] around: 48 sts.
Rnd 89-92: Knit around.
Rnd 93: K3, p6, k6, p6, knit around (purl sts will be used for attaching legs).

Begin working in short rows.
Row 94: Knit around, wrap & turn.
Row 95: P24, wrap and turn.
Row 96: K24, wrap and turn (same st that was previously wrapped).
Rows 97-99: Repeat Rows 95 and 96, then repeat Row 95 once more.
Last Rnd 100: K2tog, k7, [k2tog] 4 times, k7, k2tog, [k2, k2tog] 6 times:

Bind off & finish stuffing firmly, adding the plastic pellets last. Sew bottom seam closed by technique of choice & set aside.

Maggie Bean & Friends

LEG (make 2)

Lou & Maggie version (knitted legs)
Using circular needle (or dpns) and skin tone (or striping yarn), cast on 20 sts. Place marker, being careful not to twist, join to begin working in the round.
Rnds 1-65: Knit around, changing to white at end of last round if making Lou ankle sock version, finish off skin tone, (or continuing striped pattern for Maggie).
Rnds 66-73: Knit around.

Begin heel. Leave all sts on the needle but you will only be working half of the sts (10 sts) at this time, which will become the heel.
Rows 1-9: K10 (Garter st).
Row 10: K8, k2tog: 9 sts.
Row 11: K7, k2tog: 8 sts.

Row 12: Pick up 7 sts evenly spaced along the side of the heel flap just made, k10 sts (unworked sts at bottom of leg), pick up 7 evenly spaced sts on the opposite side of the heel flap, knit 8 sts at bottom of Heel flap, k7: 32 sts.

Beg knitting in the rnd, pm.
Rnds 13 and 14: Knit around.
Rnd 15: K10 (top of foot), ssk, k18, k2tog: 30 sts.
Rnd 16: K10, ssk, k16, k2tog: 28 sts.
Rnd 17: K10, ssk, k14, k2tog: 26 sts.
Rnd 18: K10, ssk, k12, k2tog: 24 sts.
Rnds 19-24: Knit around: 24 sts.
Rnd 25: [K2tog, k2] around: 18 sts.
Rnd 26-28: Knit around.
Rnd 29: [K2tog, k1] around: 12 sts.
Rnd 30: [K2tog] around: 6 sts.
Rnd 31: [K2tog] around: 3 sts.
Cut yarn, weave through remaining stitches and secure.

Shelby version (felted & sewn lower legs)

Using circular needle (or dpns) and skin tone, cast on 20 sts. Place marker, being careful not to twist, join to begin working in the round.
Rnds 1-31: Knit around.
Bind off all sts and set aside

Maggie Bean & Friends


Step 1: Using the pattern provided, lay out and pin pattern to felted material. If using striped material make certain to match stripes carefully. Use the ribbed band of the sweater to a design advantage as a fold over cuff for the doll stockings. Please note that due to individual gauge, the leg pattern may have to be adjusted accordingly by making a wider seam. Make certain to have the doll handy for measuring & fitting purposes.

Step 2: Pin and cut pieces out as indicated on pattern pieces. 


Step 3: Sew the foot together, ending at the X as indicated on pattern . Clip seams but do not turn. Repeat for second foot.

Step 4: With RS together, pin foot to leg as indicated on pattern. 
Step 5: Sew along seam & clip seams. 

Step 6: Pin leg back seam together careful to match stripes & sew. 


Step 7: Clip all seams, turn & stuff. Use chopstick or large blunt knitting needle to assist with turning and stuffing. 

Repeat Steps 4-7 for second leg.
Attach to doll upper leg by hand sewing with matching thread. Make seam about .5 inch down from the top of the sewn leg in order to make a fold-down cuff. 

Sewn Leg Pattern PDF

ARMS (make 2)

Using size circular needle or dpns and skin tone yarn, cast on 6 sts. Place marker, being careful not to twist, join to begin working in the round.
Rnd 1 (Beg at Hand): Kfb around: 12 sts.
Rnd 2: [Kfb, k1] around: 18 sts.
Rnds 3 and 4: Knit around.
Rnd 5: [Kfb, k2] around: 24 sts.
Rnds 6-8: Knit around.
Rnd 9: [K2tog, k10] twice: 22 sts.
Rnd 10: Knit around.
Rnd 11: [K2tog, k9] twice: 20 sts.
Rnds 12-15: Knit around: 20 sts.
Rnd 16: [K2tog, k8] twice: 18 sts.
Rnd 17: [K2tog, k7] twice: 16 sts.
Rnd 18: [K2tog, k6] twice: 14 sts.
Rnds 19 and 20: Knit around (for Maggie & Shelby version, change to shirt color at beginning of Rnd 19): 14 sts.
Rnd 21: [Kfb, k6] twice: 16 sts.
Rnd 22: [Kfb, k7] twice: 18 sts.
Rnds 23-54: Knit around.
Rnd 55: [K2tog, k1] around: 12 sts.
Rnd 56: Knit around.
Bind off all sts, cut yarn leaving long tail for sewing arm to body.


Attach arms and legs. Use purl sts on Rnd 93 of the head/torso to locate leg placement. After attaching legs, hand sew pre-gathered lace remnants around “leg opening”  of panties if desired. Weave and trim ends, knot yarn and thread securely when attaching limbs for play toys as they get heavy use.


The face really adds character and personality to the doll. Before committing to one style, try out different buttons or eyes laid out on the face, as well as different embellishments such as felt cutouts. Sketching the face may help in customizing your doll as well.

Each of the dolls in this pattern has a different style of button for the eyes. The mouths & eyebrows are minimal and are simply stitched using embroidery floss and a basic outline stitch. Maggie’s freckles are worked in French knots.

Eye Placement Procedure
Determine eye placement. Using a long doll needle & extra strong thread or string, sew eye into place. Eye can be ‘soft sculptured’ to resemble a set in eye by bringing the thread up through the top of the head & pulling tightly, which causes button to ‘sink’ into the fabric a bit. Repeat this procedure once more for first eye and repeat for second. Thread can be knotted and tied at the crown of the head since the hair will hide the threads.

The finishing touch is the blushed cheeks. Using a dark powder blush, which can be found at dollar stores (or your own if it is dark enough) and a large makeup brush or stenciling brush, load the brush with makeup, tap to release excess blush. Apply the makeup using a dabbing or pouncing motion instead of a brushing technique.

Maggie Dolls

It is easier to apply more makeup than to remove excess. If color is not saturated enough keep building up layers until desired effect is achieved. (Or for a folk art look use round felt cutouts for cheeks. Simply cut out 2 circles in desired diameter and apply using basic embroidery stitches in matching or coordinating floss color.)


There are so many techniques and materials for making hair for your doll. Maggie has hair applied directly to her head using a crochet hook. This version is a good technique if the doll is going to wear her hair pulled back as in a ponytail, because the elastic band will hold the hair in place against the head & prevent the scalp for showing through. However, it can be unsuitable for some styles because the head color shows through thus requiring more yarn hair, which can get heavy & cause a floppy neck, (see PVC pipe armature comment in the general comments at beginning). To counteract this, the crown of the head could be worked in hair color while knitting the doll head.

Procedure – Maggie's Hair
Determine hair line by marking with straight pins. Cut strands of yarn in 12 inch (or desired) lengths. Using a crochet hook, insert hook directly into knit stitches along hair line, lay yarn strand onto hook and pull through stitch. Pull ends even with one another. This style of hair application does not have anchored strands therefore, in order to keep hair on head the strands need to be held fast by an elastic band or tied with a piece of yarn. A word of warning about this style, once the hair comes out of the elastic band the strands will be sure to fall out if the doll is played with at all. On the other hand, this style gives a natural hairline appearance, without the loops that are formed by the following procedure used for Shelby’s hair.

Maggie Dolls

Maggie’s hair has the top layer gathered up & tied. The bottom layer is tied in knots so that it can worn down without the strands slipping out. 

Maggie Dolls

Another way to make and apply hair is to knit a separate wig form, onto which the yarn hair is applied with a crochet hook. This version entails knitting a circle or rectangle in garter stitch, pinning and sewing it to the dolls head, and attaching further yarn through the knit stitches using a crochet hook. This is a good version for dolls that will get rough play because even if the hair comes undone from a pony or pigtail, the skin color will not show through. Instead, all that shows is the hair colored wig form. Shelby’s hair is applied using this method.

Procedure – Shelby's Hair
Using US size 8 knitting needles cast on 30 sts.
Rows 1-26: Knit across (Garter st).
Bind off all sts.

Pin and sew to doll head using photos as a guide. 

Using unraveled black yarn, cut several strands of yarn 10-12 inches long. Apply hair strands using crochet hook and either knot each strand or loop ends through folded (looped) end in the fashion of applying fringe to a scarf.

Fill in along face and where hair part occurs. There is no need to completely fill in wig form since it is the same color as the hair.

Tie into pigtails, if desired. 

Look around in your supply stash and elsewhere for hair ideas. Other possibilities could include; faux fur cut to shape & hand stitched to head, roving or carded batts of wool, unprocessed fleece, purchased doll hair found in the doll-making supply departments of large chain craft stores, feathers, sheepskin and salvaged wigs from broken ceramic dolls, etc.


Felted Doll Clothes and Accessories

Here’s a quick and easy way to make clothing for your dolls. Each article of clothing or accessory is constructed out of felted sweaters with little or no sewing required. Existing seams, ribbing and creative blocking can be used as huge time savers, cutting down on the amount of sewing required. 

Look for sweaters and scarves with a high or 100% wool content. Sometimes, when reclaiming yarn by unraveling sweaters, one finds a sweater that just won’t successfully unravel. These are prime candidates for felting.


Feltable sweaters (and other items)
Sharp sewing scissors
Straight pins
Sewing needle & thread and/or sewing machine
Tape measure
Optional age-appropriate embellishments such as buttons, patches, flowers, sequins, beads, etc. PLEASE no choking hazard items!! When in doubt, don’t use it!!

General Procedure:
Put feltable sweater through one hot water wash/cold water rinse cycle to felt. Let dry, lightly blocking or steam pressing as needed. 

When planning exactly what item of clothing to make, consider the size of the sweater in comparison to the size of the doll. Will there be enough width to cut and sew pants legs or would a short skirt or shorts be better? Keep your tape measure & doll handy for customized fittings. The sample felted items in this tutorial were constructed out of large & extra large adult-sized sweaters.

Lay felted sweater out flat. Measure and mark the cutting line(s) with pins. Make these cuts and felt item again, as needed. This will serve to hem your item. A second felting cycle is not always necessary. Not all wool felts the same. The clothing prototypes made out of the gray sweater were felted twice. When in doubt, take the sweater apart & felt a small portion of it as a test swatch. 

The following skirt, pants & blanket were all created from one man’s ex-large gray wool argyle sweater;


Using the pre-felted sleeve of a sweater, determine cutting length by holding the sweater sleeve against the doll and marking the desired cutting edge with a pin. The edge of the cuff becomes the waist band for the skirt marking and the cut line the hem.


Try skirt on your doll. If length is acceptable and the fabric is felted enough to prevent raveling, then it’s done. Otherwise felt item one or more times as needed, always checking against the dolls’ measurements.

Blocking can be used to assist in fitting the clothing to the doll. It can also be used to flare out a skirt hemline as needed, for an A-line silhouette. Finally, if the waistband is too loose, it can be tacked with a little hand sewing. 

The model pants were made out of the other sleeve of the gray sweater. Make certain that the sleeve has enough width for the pant legs seam allowance as well as to fit over the dolls feet & legs. 
The sleeve is cut off at approximately 12 inches from the bottom edge of the cuff.

If an additional felting is needed, do so at this point. Material should be completely felted before sewing leg seams.

Lay the cut off sleeve flat, with the existing seam in the exact middle. 

This will be your cutting line. Carefully cut the pants legs by cutting through both layers, using the seam as a guide.

Turn inside out and hand (or machine) sew the pant legs along the cut edges. Turn right side out and try on doll. Adjust length as needed.

Doll Blanket
Lay remaining sweater flat. Mark and carefully cut out to insure straight lines. Done! 

A springtime alternative is to felt and cut blanket out of floral motif sweater.

Pink Striped Cowl Neck Sweater Vest

Using sleeve from pre-felted pink striped sweater, measure about 5.5-6 inches from cuff and carefully cut across in straight line. 

Laying sleeve flat, measure about 2 inches from top to locate arm openings and cut out half circles to form arm openings. 

Start with a small semi-circular cut, approximately .5 inch diameter, as the opening will stretch. Re-felt as needed.

This procedure can be used with non-felted cotton blend athletic-style tube socks, as used for Lou’s top. Use same layout & cutting procedures as for Shelby’s pink cowl neck sweater. Hem can be sewn if desired but may not be necessary if sock does not ravel. 

School Uniform Jumper
Using a sweater with a long ribbed cuff, pre-felt as in previous tutorial. Measure against doll for length and cut from sweater.

Laying sleeve flat, mark & cut half circle from each side to form armholes. Don’t worry if opening is too large as this is supposed to be a jumper. 

Cut slight curve in top to form neckline shaping.

Block bottom to create flared hemline.

Fair Isle Ski Hat
Lay the felted sleeve flat and measure 10-12 inches from cuff. Mark cutting line & carefully make cut. Use blocking to shape hat. Gather top and tie off with ribbon. Use ribbed cuff for hat band. Place on doll. Done! 

Another option is to shape the crown of the hat into a point or round it off, sew closed & attach a pompom.

Cut 1.5 inch x 14 inch rectangle out of felted sweater. Carefully cut optional fringe at both ends of the scarf. Done!

Partially Reconstructed Knitted Clothing

Another time-saving and economical technique for making doll clothes is to re-construct knitted items. This technique consists of de-constructing a portion of an item, such as a sweater sleeve & reworking it into a different item. Fiber content is not important here, except to suit individual preference and/or availability.

An example is a sleeve used to make a doll hat. 

In this process the sweater is carefully taken apart. The sleeve is detached from the body of the sweater but the sleeve seam is left in tact. Using the sleeve ribbing (cuff) as a hat band, try the “hat” (sleeve) on to the doll for size. Pin the “hat” to size, remove and start unraveling, rolling the yarn into a ball as it unravels . Continue unraveling the “hat” until about .5 inch from the pin. Carefully place the live stitches onto 2 appropriately-sized dpn or circular knitting needles (an equal number of sts on both needles). Do a 3 needle bind off, work a few rnds decreasing sts, or cut the yarn, thread a tapestry needle with the tail, and weave needle through stitches pulling tightly to close; tie off. 

Knitted Clothing
(insert Knit Clothes front & Knit Clothes back pics)

Lime Green Puff Hem Skirt
Using size 8/5mm circular needles, cast on 34 sts (I used lime green Kool-aid dyed yarn from the unraveled original cream colored sweater).

Rows 1-6: Beginning at waistband, work in k1, p1 ribbing.
Begin working in rnds, pm.
Rnd 1: Knit around.
Rnd 2: [K1, kfb] around: 51 sts.
Rnd 3: [K2, kfb] around: 68 sts.
Rnds 4-19: Knit around.
Rnds 20-23: Purl around.
Rnd 24: [K2tog, k2] around: 51 sts.
Bind off all sts.

Attach button at waistband. Using yarn, make loop at waistband with doubled yarn, knot securely to form button loop. Lightly block with purl st hem turned under.

Sweater is knitted straight in one piece, starting at the back hem and worked upwards. (I used lime green Kool-aid dyed yarn from the unraveled original cream colored sweater)

Using size 8/5mm circular needles, cast on 28 sts.
Row 1: [K1, p1] across.
Row 2: [P1, k1] across.
Rows 3 and 4: Repeat Rows 1 and 2.
Rows 5-11: Starting with a knit row, work in St st.
Row 12 (Beg sleeves): Cast on 12 sts, [p1, k1] twice, purl across, cast on 12 sts for other sleeve: 52 sts.
Row 13: [K1, p1] twice, knit across to last 4 sts, [k1, p1] twice.
Row 14: [P1, k1] twice, purl across to last 4 sts, [p1, k1] twice.
Rows 15-26: Repeat Rows 13 and 14, 6 times.
Row 27: [K1, p1] twice, k16, [k1, p1] twice, bind off next 4 sts, p1, k1, p1, k16, [k1, p1] twice.
Row 28 (Left Front): [P1, k1] twice, p16, [p1, k1] twice (leave unworked sts on needles or place on st holder as desired): 24 sts.
Row 29: [K1, p1] twice, k16, [k1, p1] twice.
Rows 30-40: Repeat Rows 28 & 29, 5 times, then repeat Row 28 once more.
Row 41: [K1, p1] twice, k8, bind off last 12 sts: 12 sts.
Row 42: With WS facing, attach yarn; p8, [p1, k1] twice.
Row 43: [K1, p1] twice, k7.
Row 44: P7, [p1, k1] twice.
Rows 45-48: Repeat Rows 43 and 44 twice.
Rows 49-52: Repeat Rows 1 and 2, twice.
Bind off all sts.

Right Front

Row 28: With WS facing, attach yarn; [p1, k1] twice, p16, [p1, k1] twice.
Rows 29-40: Work same as Left Front.
Row 41: Bind off 12 sts, k7, [k1, p1] twice: 12 sts.
Row 42: P8, [p1, k1] twice.
Row 43: K8, [k1, p1] twice.
Rows 44-48: Repeat Rows 42 and 43 twice, then repeat Row 42 once more.
Rows 49-52: Repeat Rows 1 and 2, twice.
Bind off all sts.
Sew underarm and sleeve seams.

Raid the toy box or yard sales for toys & accessories scaled to these dolls & commence playing.

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Nancy Anderson

Nancy Anderson was born & raised in the southeastern United States where she has enjoyed crafting for as long as she can remember. Creating dolls & puppets out of a variety of mediums has held a special interest for over 2 decades. Knitting & crocheting dolls has been a more recent iteration of her doll making interests and has proven to be a wonderful & challenging progression. She blogs about life in the south & the fiber arts. In addition she can be found on Ravelry as missjulep .

Pattern & images © 2009 Nancy Anderson. Contact