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Knitting for your little one doesn't have to stop in the summer time. There is still plenty of room for a knit garment in the closet of any child. This basic tank is just that piece. Knit it as is, for a simple, yet lovely top. Or, let your creative juices flow and customize it just the way you want it. A variation for stripes down the side, is included. But, you don't have to stop there. You can add a cable in front, or add stripes in different colors. It's up to you.
6m [12m, 18 m, 24m, 3T, 4T]
Shown in 3T
Chest: 19[20, 21, 23, 24, 25] inches
Length: 10[11, 121/2, 131/2, 14, 15] inches
Spud and Chloë™ Sweater [55% superwash wool, 45% organic cotton; 160 yards/146 meters per 100 gram hank];
#7500 Ice Cream - 1[1, 1, 2, 2, 2] hanks
US #7/4.5mm 24 inch circular needle
Stitch markers
2 Buttons
16 sts and 26 rows = 4 inches in St st
This tank is knit in the round from the bottom up. The front and back are then finished by knitting back and forth. There is an option for stripes up the side to the underarm.
Turning a hem and three-needle bind off
Using long tail cast-on method, cast on 76[80, 84, 92, 96, 100] sts, pm, and join in the round, being careful not to twist your sts.
Rounds 1-4: Knit around.
Round 5: Purl around. This is the ridge for turning under the hem. When you turn it under, this purled row will be folded under and become the bottom edge. You can sew this into place later. You could also do a knitted hem by knitting another 4 rounds. Then, with your left needle, pick up the first stitch from your cast on edge, and knit it together with your first working stitch. Continue this around.
Continue knitting every round until piece measures 6[7, 8, 9, 91/4, 10] inches from purled ridge.

Now you will be binding off for the arms, separating the front from the back:
Set up round: K38[40, 42, 46, 48, 50], pm, k to end.
Round 1: Bind off 6[6, 6, 8, 8, 8) sts, knit to next marker, bind off next 6[6, 6, 8, 8, 8] sts, knit to end.
You will now work back and forth on these 32[34, 36, 38, 40, 42] sts. The back sts are no longer connected to your working yarn; they can remain on the circular needle or be placed on waste yarn.
Row 1 (WS): K3, purl to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 2 (Decrease row): K3, ssk, knit to last 5 sts, k2tog, k3: 30[32, 34, 36, 38, 40] sts.
Row 3: K3, purl to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 4: Knit across.
Repeat Rows 1-4, 1[1, 1, 1, 2, 3] more times: 28[30, 32, 34, 34, 34] sts.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until piece measures 9[93/4, 11, 111/2, 12, 13] inches from purled ridge, ending with Row 3.
Neck edge (RS): K9[10, 10, 11, 11, 11], bind off center 10[10, 12, 12, 12, 12], knit across.
Row 1: K3, purl to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 2: Knit across.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 10[11, 121/2, 131/2, 14, 15] inches from purled ridge.
Place sts on holder, break yarn.
With WS facing, join yarn to remaining strap.
Row 1: K3, purl to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 2: Knit across.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 91/2[101/2, 12, 13, 131/2, 141/2] inches from purled ridge, ending with Row 2.
Next 3 Rows: Knit across.
Buttonhole Row: K2, yo, k2tog, k1[2, 2, 3, 3, 3], yo, k2tog, k2.
Last 3 Rows: Knit across.
Bind off all sts.
With WS facing, join yarn to back sts.
Work same as Front from Armhole Shaping through Neck edge: 9[10, 10, 11, 11, 11] sts each side.

Row 1: K3, p to last 3 sts, k3
Row 2: Knit across.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 101/2[111/2, 13, 14, 141/2, 15] inches from purled ridge, ending with Row 2.
Last 7 Rows: Knit across.
With WS facing, join yarn to remaining front strap.
Row 1: K3, purl to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 2: Knit across.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 10[11, 121/2, 131/2, 14, 15] inches from purled ridge.
Place sts on holder, break yarn.
Turn inside out and use the Three Needle Bind Off method to join right shoulder.
The stripes will start after the purl ridge for the hem. Starting with the first stitch of the round:
Round 1: K2, p4, k2, k30[32, 34, 38, 40, 42], pm, k2, p4, k2, knit across.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 6[7, 8, 9, 91/4, 10] inches from purled edge.
Separate for Front and Back: K1[1, 1, 0, 0, 0], bind off 6[6, 6, 8, 8, 8) sts, knit to next marker, k1[1, 1, 0, 0, 0], bind off next 6[6, 6, 8, 8, 8] sts, knit across.
You will now work back and forth on these 32[34, 36, 38, 40, 42] sts. The back sts are no longer connected to your working yarn; they can remain on the circular needle or be placed on waste yarn.
Complete same as basic pattern, beginning with Front Armhole Shaping.

Weave in all ends.
Terri spends her days chasing a baby, herding teenagers, and knitting and designing during nap time and into the night. She thinks sleep is overrated and yarn is underrated. Her passion for knitting is met only by her passion for ice hockey. You can take a glimpse at her passions on her blog.
Pattern & images © 2009 Terri Kruse. Contact
I actually stole the design for this submarine directly from my little brother. At 6 feet tall, he’s not so little anymore. As a kid, Wesley created an impressive portfolio of military vehicle designs, including everything from jet planes and submarines, to aircraft carriers. He made elaborate sketches, complete with specs and even maps of their locations. Best of all were the names he gave them, such as USS Brown Barbarian, Rockin’ Starfish, or my favorite, a tiny submarine called Spy Cod.
He was imaginative, to say the least. These days he is a bio fuels engineer, creating jet fuel from lollipops, or something like that. I’m not sure about the specifics. Apparently, it’s top secret.
7 inches long, 5½ inches tall
Cascade 220 and Cascade 220 Heathers [100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 220 yards/200 meters per 3.5 ounce/100 gram hank];
#9561 aqua (MC); 1 hank
#9468 blue (CC1), 1 hank
#9473 dark gray (CC2), 1 hank
US #5/3.75 mm double pointed needles (set of 4)
White craft felt
Yarn needle
Embroidery needle
Stitch markers
Embroidery floss in white, gray, and black
Stuffing
20 sts and 28 rows = 4 inches in St st
The body of the sub is knitted in the round, with the exterior parts knitted separately.
Knitting on dpns
Using CC1, cast on 6 sts, pm, join to knit in the round, being careful not to twist.
Rnd 1: Kfb 6 times: 12 sts.
Rnds 2 and 3: Knit around.
Rnd 4: (Kfb, k1) 6 times: 18 sts.
Rnd 5: Knit around.
Break yarn. Join MC.
Rnd 6: Knit around.
Rnd 7: (Kfb, k2) 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 8 and all even rounds through Rnd 16: Knit around.
Rnd 9: (Kfb, k3) 6 times: 30 sts.
Rnd 11: (Kfb, k4) 6 times: 36 sts.
Rnd 13: (Kfb, k5) 6 times: 42 sts.
Rnd 15: (Kfb, k6) 6 times: 48 sts.
Rnd 17: (Kfb, k7) 6 times: 54 sts.
Rnds 18-21: Knit around.
Rnd 22: (K2tog, k7) 6 times: 48 sts.
Rnds 23-28: Knit around.
Rnd 29: (K2tog, k6) 6 times: 42 sts.
Rnds 30-35: Knit around.
Rnd 36: (K2tog, k5) 6 times: 36 sts.
Rnds 37-46: Knit around.
Stuff sub.
Rnd 47: (K2tog, k4) 6 times: 30 sts
Rnd 48 and all remaining even numbered rounds: Knit around.
Rnd 49: (K2tog, k3) 6 times: 24 sts
Rnd 51: (K2tog, k2) 6 times: 18 sts
Rnd 53: (K2tog, k1) 6 times: 12 sts
Rnd 54: K2tog 6 times: 6 sts
Break yarn; weave tail through remaining sts. Stuff remainder of toy. Pull sts tightly closed, knot and pull knot to inside of fabric.

Using CC1, cast on 20 sts, pm, join to knit in the round, being careful not to twist.
Rnd 1: Knit around.
Rnd 2: Ssk, k16, k2tog: 18 sts.
Rnd 3: Ssk, k14, k2tog: 16 sts.
Rnd 4: Ssk, k12, k2tog: 14 sts.
Continue in this manner, decreasing 1 st at the beginning and end of each row until 4 sts remain. Break yarn, weave tail through remaining sts. Pull sts tightly closed, knot and pull tail to inside of fabric. Do not stuff.
Using CC2, cast on 12 sts, pm, join to knit in the round, being careful not to twist.
Rnds 1-10: Knit around.
Rnd 11: K12, turn, begin knitting straight.
Rnd 12: P2tog, p8, p2tog: 10 sts.
Rnd 13: Ssk, k6, k2tog: 8 sts.
Rnd 14: P2tog, p4, p2tog: 6 sts.
Rnd 15: Ssk, k2, k2tog: 4 sts.
Bind off remaining sts.

Using CC2, cast on 12 sts, pm, join to knit in the round, being careful not to twist.
Rnds 1-5: Knit around.
Rnd 6: K12, turn, begin knitting straight.
Rnd 7: P2tog, p8, p2tog: 10 sts.
Rnd 8: Ssk, k6, k2tog: 8 sts.
Rnd 9: P2tog, p4, p2tog: 6 sts.
Rnd 10: Ssk, k2, k2tog: 4 sts.
Bind off. Leave a 10 inch tail for seaming.
Using CC1, cast on 18 sts, pm, join to knit in the round, being careful not to twist.
Rnd 1: (Kfb, k2) 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 2-5: Knit around.
Bind off. Leave a 10 inch tail for seaming.
All seaming uses a ladder stitch.
Center the fins on the top and bottom of sub, centered between lines of decreases. Seam into place as shown.

Line up the diagonal edges of the periscope, so that it forms a right angle. Seam those edges together using tail.

Stuff periscope firmly. Cut felt insert using template. Push into periscope opening, and sew around perimeter using gray thread.

Place periscope on top of sub, centering with top fin. Seam in place. Slide blue base over top. Seam around upper edge using blue yarn. Sew bottom of base to top of sub, stuffing lightly as you go.

Use black embroidery floss to sew black cross lines over opening of periscope.
Cut portholes from white felt using template. Use white thread and a whipstitch to sew to sides of sub, spacing portholes ¼ inch apart.

Outline each porthole in CC2, by laying a length of yarn along edge of circle, and securing into place using gray thread. This is also known as couching.
Download Printable template for portholes.

Katie Boyette is a fiber artist in the mountains of NC. Her first book, Knitwits: 20 Projects for Beginners and Seasoned Knitters was released in 2010, and her second book, More Knitwits is due for release in the fall of 2011. After she finishes the second book, she plans to start a ukulele band, raise fancy breeds of chickens, and sleep very, very late on Saturdays. You can read more about her life and her knitting at her website, where you can also find less interesting things, like free patterns and tutorials on how to make knitted toys.
Pattern © 2011 Katie Boyette. Contact
© Copyright Petite Purls 2011